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Author: Alice Grahame

Alice Grahame is a freelance writer based in London. She's worked for the BBC, Guardian and various NGOs. She enjoys walking, allotment gardening and trying new plant-based dishes.

Precision Fermentation Scales Up in the Middle East

The scope of precision fermentation to radically improve dairy alternatives has been given a boost by the announcement of a new casein manufacturing plant in the Middle East. The facility, in Abu Dhabi, UAE, will produce an animal-free version of the milk protein, which is a crucial component of cheese-making. It is the first factory of its kind and a chance to dramatically scale up animal-free casein production and move towards cheese that is bio-identical to its animal-derived counterpart. The location of the plant means it will be able to access a distribution hub for rapidly growing markets in the Middle East and Asia-Pacific regions.  

Partnering for Change 

The project is a partnership between US/Australian vegan start-up Change Foods and commercial facilities provider Kezad Group. The companies are supported by the UAE Ministry of Economy under the NextGen FDI initiative. Dr Thani bin Ahmed Al Zeyoudi, the UAE Minister of State for Foreign Trade welcomed the deal and the innovative start-up. He said: “Change Foods is an outstanding example of the kind of emerging food technology investments the UAE wishes to make in shaping a sustainable, secure and affordable food system that can serve growing local and regional demand,” 

The factory is currently being designed and built and casein production is likely to begin in early 2024. The company’s CEO is David Bucca – a former aerospace entrepreneur who is on a mission to recreate dairy without animals. He says that in a few years consumers will be able to buy cheese made with a precision fermentation process and it will be indistinguishable from the animal-based version; “With precision fermentation we use microorganisms and ferment them with sugar to create ingredients that are bioidentical to those in dairy. We can then combine them with plant-based fats to formulate many different products. This makes food that is far more sustainable, requires far less land and creates less pollution and carbon, and provides people with a cheese that is much more authentic than some of today’s alternatives.” 

Mass Market Appeal 

The company has made prototypes in the lab and is now addressing the challenge of scaling up and reducing costs, to make products that are commercially viable. Interest in the work, and the prospect of a game-changing improvement to animal-free cheese, is very high. One of Change Foods’ strategic industry partners is Upfield, who own Violife, the largest plant-based cheese brand. David Bucca says: “We are very excited to be partnering with them because we can help solve problems that are limiting uptake, such as making the hard cheese function better. Our technology will make animal-free cheese more appealing to a broader mass market of consumers who are looking for the flavour, texture and meltiness they are used to.” 

 Change Foods is also partnering with Sigma Foods, a Mexican multinational food company. There has been a lot of interest from retailers. David Bucca adds: “Retailers want to bring on board the most innovative products that will appeal to the broadest demographic and market segment. Everyone is very interested in this space and that technology that will solve the problems of the current offerings.”    

Improved Eating Experience 

The market share held by plant-based cheese is still small. Currently of all cheeses bought in the US only between 3% and 5% are plant-based. David Bucca says one reason for this is that many products don’t measure up to the eating experience that people expect from cheese: “In the rush to get to market some products have sacrificed the research and development of performance, and that has limited uptake. Some current plant-based cheeses have an off flavour which is difficult to mask, or they have an unpleasant texture or mouthfeel. One of the biggest gripes reported by consumers is clagginess, especially when its melted, and that it leaves a residue in mouth. That’s largely driven by starches and hydrocolloids in plant-based ingredients. Another issue is that people expect cheese to be nutritious, but most alternatives contain very little protein. Precision fermentation will fix that problem. We can make casein protein that will integrate successfully, make the cheese work better and add back the nutrition that current alternatives lack. We can include up to 22% protein, which is what a typical mozzarella contains. So not only will the resulting cheese taste and feel the same as dairy, but it will also have the same nutritional profile.” 

Government Subsidies 

David Bucca, Founder & CEO, Change Foods

Scaling up precision fermentation in the new facility will enable animal-free cheese to taste and work like its non-plant-based equivalent. It will also help bring down the cost of alternative dairy production. Both will result in better consumer satisfaction. Support from the UAE government, in the form of subsidies to help finance that project, has been crucial in enabling scaling up. David Bucca explains: “As a start-up we would have found it very difficult without this support. The cohesive approach of the UAE government has been very refreshing. The Ministries of Economy, Climate and Environment, and Industry and Advanced Technology are all aligned to the same priorities. They are very focused on food security, given that the UAE imports around 90% of their food. The country currently imports dairy cows from Uruguay. Now they can recreate dairy with less resource intensity.” 

David Bucca would like to see other governments taking a lead in supporting the growth of precision fermentation. “The Netherlands and Denmark are investing in precision fermentation and cell-based meats, but it is a drop in the ocean. We’re competing with animal agriculture which has huge government support, so we need similar government support to accelerate the rise of alternatives. Also, for emerging technologies like precision fermentation we need a regulatory framework, to make it easy to regulate the products and bring them to market. That’s where governments can play a huge role.”  

Cracking the Foodservice Sector

Cracking the foodservice sector is crucial for plant-based food producers, but specifically for those making meat alternatives there are great opportunities in the post-Covid consumer landscape. By partnering with the right outlets and distributers, plant-based brands are increasing their impact, according to some key players in the sector.   

Foodservice Sector Growth 

According to globaldata.com UK foodservice is expected to grow by a CAGR of more than 14% between 2021 and 2026.  Foodservice includes any outlet that is not retail: such as pubs, bars, restaurants, schools, universities, hospitals, offices, work canteens, leisure facilities, travel destinations, events, street stalls, and transport onboard catering. 

 

The foodservice sector is complex and diverse, with significant changes post-Covid. During 2021, customers stopped eating out, and several familiar restaurant chains disappeared. There has been a huge expansions of delivery operators like Just Eat, Deliveroo and Uber Eats, who were able to safely cater for customers during this time. Customers using those platforms can filter for dietary requirements, strengthening the importance of catering to those with ethical, religious, and health concerns.  

From Niche to Mainstream 

Claire Roper is a Marketing Consultant for foodservice and food brands, who was previously Head of Foodservice Marketing at Quorn. She explains that while the percentage of dedicated plant-based consumers in the UK is still relatively small, between 40% and 50% of consumers want to reduce meat consumption, bringing meat-free dining from niche to everyday behaviour.  

Claire continues “It’s very important for brands and suppliers to work with foodservice to deliver the options that consumers now expect. By offering plant-based options, it allows an outlet to offer greater inclusivity on their menu. Because vegans have quite specific requirements, they often drive a group’s decision on where to eat. If a menu lacks vegan options, the custom of the party could be lost.   

It’s important for foodservice operators to make sure they’ve got something appealing and that it is visible on the menu. Consumers do a lot of research before going out, and there’s a lot more opportunity for people to share opinions on review sites. People are making decisions before they even venture inside an establishment.”  

Creative Problem Solving 

Claire Roper works with brands on accessing foodservice in creative ways. Recently she has been working with aquafaba-based egg-alternative company Oggs to get pubs and bars to switch out the egg white in their cocktails. “People are starting to think about an alternative to egg in cocktails. Oggs foams well, has neutral taste, and is less messy and wasteful than egg white. There’s a shortage of bar staff so making cocktails that everyone can drink makes life simpler and reduces labour costs.” 

She adds that in such unpredictable times it is crucial that suppliers build strong partnerships with wholesalers and distributers to secure their place in the supply chain. “It’s important to understand the needs of your customer and explain the added value you can create with plant-based menus. Research shows that people who choose plant-based spend more in terms of getting the right meal. With so many vegan products there is a great chance for chefs to be innovative and drive their establishment as a destination and encourage people to eat out.”  

Mission-Aligned Partners 

One fast-growing European vegan brand is Heura. The Spanish alt-meat producer doubled its turnover in 2021 and is now in 22 countries, including France, Italy, Singapore, Hong Kong, Dubai, and the UK. Founded by animal activists Marc Coloma and Bernat Ananos Martinez, the company’s mission is to save animals by changing what people eat. The brand, named after the Catalan word for ivy, is best known for chicken-style pieces but also makes burgers, sausages, nuggets, and breaded fillets.  

 

Heura’s UK Development Chef is Mitch Lee. He explains that the partnership with Vegetarian Express is an important route into foodservice: “Vegetarian Express provide vegan and vegetarian offerings for contract catering at big offices like Google, and various banks, schools, universities, sports venues and more. They’re regularly promoting our products to help show just how good meat alternatives can be.” 

Mitch says a big part of his job is educating chefs and persuading them that meat-free options are tasty, good value, and important for their business: A steak restaurant might not initially think they need our products, but if there’s a vegan in a group and nothing for them, the group won’t be eating there. Foodservice is very emotive and it’s there for when people meet friends and family. We enable those places to offer inclusive options for everyone to enjoy.”  

Supporting Menu Development 

As Development Chef, Mitch works with chefs and catering companies showing them recipes and demonstrating their products: “They learn about our products and how to use them. So if their default dish is chicken curry, I’ll suggest to them how to make the chicken curry vegan. It will be the same nutritionally, still high protein, and everyone can eat it, rather than making two separate curries. That way from a cost point of view they can streamline their menu.”  

“Of course, not all chefs take to plant-based eating immediately. I’ve met some that don’t even want to try the dishes. And for others, it is not a business priority. I demonstrated a Thai curry at a school and the chef wouldn’t taste it. I left some out and he did eventually taste it and said it was better than he expected. I took that as a compliment!”  

Mitch believes for plant-based brands inside the foodservice sector and elsewhere, working together and championing other brands is the most important: “There’s lots of space for everyone. If you look at the meat aisle there’s still far more meat than plant-based meat. We still have a long way to go, and it’s bigger than just one brand.” 

Barriers and Opportunities for Alternative Protein

Consumers know and like alternative proteins, but want improvements in taste, price, and nutritional content, according to a new report by Boston Consulting Group and Blue Horizon Corporation.  The study found that the share of consumers eating only or mostly alternative proteins would double if certain barriers were overcome.  

The researchers asked 3700 people in seven countries in North America, Europe, the Middle East and Asia about alternative protein. They found that consumers are open to alternatives but want better tasting and healthier products. Consumers cited taste, nutritional value, and price as the attributes that they valued the most.  

“Peak Meat” 

The findings suggest that the developing world might reach “peak meat” over the next couple of decades, paving the way for a more resilient, sustainable, and stable food system. The transformation is supported by investment and technological innovation, but certain barriers must be overcome if alternative protein is to reach its potential.  

Anuj Maheshwari of Temesek Holdings, a contributor to the report says: “By 2035, if alternative proteins reach full parity in taste, texture, and price with conventional animal proteins, we anticipate that 11% of all the meat, seafood, eggs, and dairy eaten around the globe will be made from alternative proteins. With a push from regulators and step changes in technology, that number could reach 22%.”  

However, she warns that: “It is not a given that consumers will switch to alternative proteins for the sake of climate impact, unless expectations for taste, texture, cost, and nutritional value are met.”  

Global Demand 

Awareness of alternative proteins amongst consumers was around 70%, with around 60% having tried the food, with 35% identifying as frequent, near-exclusive or exclusive consumers. Consumers in the UAE are the most open to alternative proteins and French consumers the most hesitant.  

Chinese consumers reported high awareness and consumption. As contributor Albert Tseng of Dao Foods said: “We will not be able to prevent people in China or anywhere else from consuming more proteins. But you can convince consumers to buy the right ones. This is our task.”  

Contributors Eugène Klerk and Daniel Rupli of Credit Suisse put the challenge this way: “Inhibitors differ globally: In more developed countries we need to motivate consumers to switch from traditional proteins to alternative ones. In less developed countries, we need to avoid consumers adopting traditional proteins and directly move to alternative ones.”  

Healthier Choices 

Improvements in the in the health aspects of products are especially important. Three-quarters of the respondents cited health as the primary motivator, and it is the top driver in all markets other than France, where it is number two. The Covid-19 pandemic accelerated the adoption of alternative proteins for health reasons, especially in China.  

Health concerns and taste are the biggest barriers to consumption across all markets. Rahul Ray of Tyson Ventures, the venture capital arm of Tyson Foods, adds, “Producers need to clean up the ingredient list. Otherwise, there is a risk that consumers will step away as the products look too processed.”  

 Taste and Cost 

When it comes purchasing decisions taste and price are key criteria. “Animal-based proteins are often understood as superior across multiple attributes,” says Lisa Sweet of the World Economic Forum. “So, in the next couple of years, if alternative proteins are able to achieve a lower price point, that could be a critical enabler to motivate consumers to switch.”  

The report found that investors understand the opportunities offered by alternative protein, and that capital investment has risen at an annual rate of 124% over a two-year period from $1 billion in 2019 to $5 million in 2021. Investment is increasingly global, with increased funding from the Middle East and Asia-Pacific region.  

Innovations in Manufacturing 

The report also looked at innovations in ingredients, processes, and software, that are making alternative protein more palatable and viable. Notable successes include Perfect Day, Better Dairy, Nobell Foods, Moolec Science, and Change Foods using plants, yeasts, and fungi in animal-free casein to replicate the melting and stretching characteristics of cheese. Nature’s Fynd has developed new textures for meat and dairy substitutes from filamentous fungi. Fiberstar and PeelPioneers are using orange peel to replace methyl cellulose. La Vie’s proprietary processing technology helped produce a solid “fat that sizzles” in its plant-based bacon.   

The report’s impact analysis shows that alternative protein is one of the best tools available to combat the climate crisis. But it concludes that if consumption of it is to grow consumer acceptance must improve. As Sir Charles Godfray of the University of Oxford puts it: “We need to keep one thing in mind: we do not eat proteins, we eat meals,”  

Gauthier Soho: The Future of French Fine Dining

What happens when a Michelin-starred traditional French restaurant goes vegan? While supermarkets, cafes and high street chains have largely accepted plant-based eating, fine dining has been slower to adapt to the trend. Gauthier Soho in London is one of a very small number of a high-end restaurants committed to serving only 100% plant-based cuisine. Removing animal products from the menu was challenging but has reaped some welcome rewards.  

Founder Alexis Gauthier is a classically trained chef who served meat, seafood, and cheese in his successful Michelin-starred French restaurant for 25 years. It was the sight of animal activists protesting the use of foie gras that got him thinking about the ethics of what he was serving. Foie gras was promptly taken off the menu, and within six months Gauthier had himself gone vegan. A plant-based menu was introduced, alongside the regular menu, which became so popular, to the point where 80% of customers were choosing it.  

Completely Mad 

In 2018, at the Restaurant Magazine Restaurant Congress in London, Gauthier announced that the future of gastronomy was plant-based, and that within two years his restaurant would be 100% vegan, drawing gasps of incredulity from the audience.  

Gauthier’s Marketing Director James Lewis says that the company did not take the decision lightly. “We had our Soho rent, business rates and the salaries of 25 staff to pay. Our friends and industry colleagues said we were completely mad. It was a huge jump, but we knew that if we were going to do it, it had to be 100% plant-based. Because if you mix the message, you’re going to confuse people. The message had to be very clear.”  

He explains that another turning point was the pandemic: “It got us thinking that humans shouldn’t be meddling with animals. It was too big a signal for us to ignore. It seemed like the right time to stop using animals in our business. So when we reopened in 2021 there was just one menu and it was the vegan menu.”  

The company knew they were taking a big risk, but the team was surprised at how difficult the transition was. 

James Lewis explains: “I was taken aback by the level of anger. Some customers felt cheated. We had diners who’d been coming for 25 years asking where their beef was. We were accused of discriminating against meat-eaters, pandering to the ‘woke media’ and turning into a cult. We had some diners arrive, look at the menu and walk straight out. We had to explain that we are still the same restaurant, with the same atmosphere, service, and décor. The spacious dining room, tablecloths, silver cutlery, bow tied waiters and soft lighting are all still here. The only difference is that one or two ingredients are no longer used.”  

Reaching A Different Crowd

The change required a different marketing approach, reaching out to a different crowd. Gauthier Soho took to Instagram and social media to show what they were doing and gained a significant following that way. Luckily the bold move paid off and the establishment is now well-booked. It may have lost some of its old customers, but it has gained many new ones.  

“The average age of our customers dropped by about 20 years. Before, we were just like any other French restaurant. Now we find people are seeking us out. Pro-vegan celebrities like Billie Eilish and Kourtney Kardashian have dined with us. When plant-based diners come to our restaurant and realise they can eat everything, we get a huge reaction because they feel really loved!” 

The business has also gained an entire new sector of the market, too – the corporate sector. Investment banks and city finance companies now book Gauthier Soho because they want to send a message to their directors and customers that they are an ethical company.  

In terms of food, the kitchen was under intense pressure to make the food just as delicious as before. Creativity was key. As James Lewis explains: “People worry they’re going to lose the richness, the protein hit and the deep satisfying umami they got from meat. So we’ve created a tasting menu with seven or eight courses, making sure they creaminess and deep flavours are there. We make sure we’re serving the best seasonal vegetables you can buy: the best asparagus, black truffles, white truffles. We’re 100% open to trying new plant-based ingredients: meat substitutes and 3d printed meats. People send us samples and we try everything.” 

Expanding Their Portfolio 

Alexis Gauthier and James Lewis now run a second plant-based restaurant called 123V at London’s Bond Street. It is a casual dining eatery that makes far more use of meat alternatives. For example, they make sushi using marinated Zeastar to imitate salmon and tuna.  

Lewis is enthusiastic about the new products coming on to the market. “We’ve just got back from the Kind Earth Tech in Amsterdam where we saw some amazing cell-based meats including a fantastic mortadella. The new generation of cheeses are getting better and better. We’re happy to try anything that anyone sends us. I think food innovators should talk to chefs more, ask what is missing from the taste repertoire, rather than just making plant-based versions of things we already know. I think if there’s a gap in the market it’s for a company to redefine what we eat, something that no-one has eaten or even imagined yet.” 

In the immediate future Gauthier and Lewis are partnering with some big hotel groups to help them to develop their vegan menus. “A lot of companies have realised they’ve got to improve their vegan offering. It’s becoming the case that for every six diners one is a vegan, and often the vegan is choosing where the group eats. I believe if there were more vegan chefs and restaurants there would be better plant-based food, as they will drive the improvements, and we’re one of the places doing it.”  

Transforming Hospital Menus with Plant Based Food

Given the scientific data on the benefits of a plant-based diet in managing, preventing and reversing medical conditions, you would expect vegan meals to be easily available in healthcare facilities. In reality, persuading hospitals to remove animal products from the menu is still a challenge. However, some committed doctors and pioneering manufacturers are now bringing plant-based hospital food into the mainstream.  

We know of just one fully plant-based hospital, the Hayek in Beirut, Lebanon, which decided in March 2021 to serve exclusively vegan food. It shared the reasons in a strongly worded statement: “Our patients will no longer wake up from surgery to be greeted with ham, cheese, milk, and eggs. The very foods that may have contributed to their health problems in the first place. When the World Health Organisation classifies processed meat as a group 1A carcinogen, the same as tobacco, and red meat as group 2A carcinogenic, then serving meat in a hospital is like serving cigarettes in a hospital.”  

Plant-Based by Default 

In the US and UK, plant-based health advocates are hoping this will be part of a trend for better access to healthy plant-based food. And a significant success in New York suggests that health institutions are starting to listen. In October 2022 New York public hospitals announced that they will serve plant-based lunches as the default option. The pilot scheme, operating across eleven hospitals, means vegan meals will be the standard lunchtime offering. Animal products will be available on request.  

The transition was facilitated by the Greener by Default initiative from the Better Food Foundation. The plant-based campaign group has already helped 50 institutions including universities, NGOs and companies switch to vegan meals by default.  

 Jennifer Channin, Executive Director of the Better Food Foundation believes that defaults are one of the most promising ways to change how people eat: “If folks don’t specifically request meat or dairy, they get a plant-based meal. Patients are presented first with a menu of recommended plant-based specials. If they don’t want those specials, they’re then given other options. Plant-based is currently the default lunchtime menu and there are plans to introduce it at dinnertime too.”  

Health as a Priority 

Catering in New York public hospitals is provided by Sodexo, one of the world’s biggest foodservice companies. The Better Food Foundation is also working with Sodexo on a similar plant-based default pilot at three university dining halls. Jennifer Channin says the transition has been met with enthusiasm: “The hospitals have been supportive because improving the health of patients is obviously one of their highest priorities. Though still in the pilot phase, the change has made ripples throughout the hospitals’ catering services. Our team has been working with the hospital chefs, helping them choose recipes for this pilot, and helping foodservice administrators communicate their new plants-by-default offerings.”  

She says despite some initial scepticism the pilot has been met with approval: “Institutions expect plant-based meals to be unpopular, so getting leaders to agree to a pilot is a first step. But the move resulted in a 95% approval rating even though fewer than 1% of patients were vegetarian or vegan. This shows that plant-based meals are widely accepted and popular when they become the norm.”  

She hopes that this will be the start of a domino effect, with more hospitals offering plant-based meals as the norm: “Our Greener by Default team has lots of resources to help hospital administrators and health professionals make these changes. We know that the conventional Western diet, heavy on meat and dairy, is a major contributor to serious health problems. This is the case in New York City where diet-related conditions like heart disease are leading causes of death. That’s why it is urgent to send a different message to patients about what kinds of diets are the norm.”   

Global Movement 

Dr Shireen Kassam is a leading British plant-based nutrition advocate and the founder of Plant Based Health Professional UK. She is a consultant haematologist at King’s College Hospital, London, and a visiting professor of plant-based nutrition at Winchester University. She has been vegan since 2013 and is working to make plant-based meals more available and popular for both patients and staff.  

Dr Kassam says raising awareness amongst health professionals is crucial: “We’re focusing on educating health professionals around the country, with talks, webinars, and downloadable information to share with patients. At King’s we have quite an extensive vegan menu, but we need to support staff and patients to make changes. We’ve been working on the new inpatient menu, which changes every six months, and I hope that by the next change we’ll have removed processed red meat.  

We know that people eating a plant-based diet have significantly lower rates of heart disease, cancer, and type 2 diabetes, and use less medications. We should be teaching people when they’re in hospital, how to eat well. We need to support people to make better choices and give them the tools to eat better with their families and communities.” 

Ongoing Challenges 

Transitioning away from traditional meat-based meals has not been without challenges. One initiative was Meatless Mondays during the international No Meat May campaign: “Removing processed red meat as a minimum made sense given that it is considered a group 1 carcinogen but getting people to join in proved difficult. During May some staff satisfied meat cravings with trips to on-site retail chains. For patient meals, nutritionists do have a say, but many still consider meat a good source of protein and calories and are reluctant to remove familiar and popular dishes from the menu.” 

The conversation became easier when the NHS committed to Net Zero. King’s has now committed to moving to a plant-based food environment and removing processed red meat from its menus. Its main caterers, MediRest and Compass have also committed to reducing meat-based meals. UK hospitals are now more likely to have an extensive vegan menu, such as this one at Nottingham University Hospitals.  

Dr Kassam believes one way forward is for health professionals and plant-based businesses to work together to make plant-based food a more desirable choice: “It would be great if businesses could pitch to hospital catering managers with products and recipe ideas. Or offer a plant-based vending machine for out of hours catering. Hillingdon Hospital is trying a vegan vending machine and we need more trials to find out what sells well. We also need more deals for the NHS to make these items price competitive, so we can show that plant-based food is tasty, nutritious and good value for everyone.”